Second hand: we explain everything

It's also a way of consuming that avoids waste and allows you to buy back or take back items that have already been used. Today, this purchasing model is increasingly applied. It's also being taken up by stores and platforms like Vinted, which are modernizing the concept to make it more accessible. In this article, we'll take a look at where the second-hand/fripe concept comes from, why it's currently on the rise, and how it's being applied.

The origins of second-hand

Second-hand is not a recent concept. In fact, the beginnings of this mode of consumption date back to the Middle Ages! Back then, only the wealthy could afford new clothes, most of which were custom-made and handcrafted. As a result, peasants and people of modest means were unable to afford them.

This is how “second-hand” came about. To be able to dress without belonging to a privileged class, the more modest went to markets where it was possible to buy old clothes belonging to the richer social classes. However, thrift shops were not necessarily well received by society, as they were sometimes accused of taking advantage of people's poverty or stealing the merchandise they then resold.

It was around the 18th century that thrift shops experienced their golden age. Indeed, it was in Paris that the flow of clothing from Europe was at its greatest. As a result, halles devoted entirely to this trade developed and prospered until the post-war years.

The Carreau du Temple is Paris' premier second-hand market, divided by type and quality level into 4 Carrés:

• Le Carré du Palais-Royal (carpets, silks, ribbons, gloves, feathers and second-hand goods in good to almost new condition)
• Le Carré de Flore (household linen)
• Le Carré du Pou-volant (scrap metal and low-quality second-hand goods)
• Le Carré de la Forêt-Noire (small leather goods, shoes and leather)

However, it was during the late XIXᵉ and early XXᵉ centuries that thrift shops gradually disappeared in favor of the development of stores selling new “ready-to-wear” clothes. After that, thrift shops were back in vogue at the end of the 20th century, thanks to the many social demands, and then today, thanks to the ethical consumption mode it refers to as well as the economic and sustainable benefits.

19th-century Temple tiles (Paris)

Second-hand clothes today

Nowadays, second-hand clothes and more generally second-hand clothes are very important purchasing practices in our society.

Since the health crisis, people have become more aware of the negative impact of fast fashion, and of today's environmental and social issues. As a result, a greater proportion of society is now paying more attention to their lifestyles and trying to reduce their consumption.

As a result, second-hand clothing is making a comeback and is becoming increasingly popular. Economical and respectful of the environment, buying second-hand clothes allows you to find unique pieces that are always in fashion, because as the saying goes: “fashion is an eternal restart”.

What's more, online platforms like Vinted, for example, facilitate access to these products, making the practice more attractive and accessible to all. Indeed, if you don't live in the city, thrift shops and garage sales are not yet well established in the countryside, although this is gradually changing.

Beware of second-hand greenwashing!

Some people value second-hand clothing and use it as an excuse to continue over-consuming FAST-fashion. Indeed, even if they buy a large quantity of clothes, if they don't like certain outfits in a few days' time or if they don't fit, well, second-hand becomes an excuse to avoid throwing them away.

And, as a bonus, it gives them a little financial advantage. So don't misuse this practice or use it as an excuse to continue over-consuming. In that case, the reuse of clothes already worn, with the aim of limiting waste and overproduction, becomes pointless and meaningless.

Are the big brands getting on board?

Indeed, many groups in the ready-to-wear sector, such as Kiabi, Bizzbee and Hermès in the luxury sector, have recently opened a “second life” department in their stores, offering second-hand clothing from their own brands, or not for some.

But where does the logic lie in self-competition: Greenwashing? False image?

Well, in reality, there's an economic reason behind it all. Second-hand has become a flourishing market, and so some brands have seized the opportunity.

It allows them to recycle past collections, attracting new customers who are fond of second-hand clothing, or who don't necessarily have the means to afford new clothes for the big brands. What's more, it also enables brands to build a positive, contemporary image with today's values of sustainability and respect for the environment.

Finally, it also ensures that they regain market share by offering their own second-hand products, instead of finding them only on certain online resale platforms, for example.